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Corn Snake Research

Snow and Amelanistic                                                    Wild Type

Breeding

Females are normally ready to breed approximately one to two months after coming out of brumination, and lay their clutch in or around the month of July.  Females will eat whenever the opportunity arises building up their fat reserves, whereas males eat occasionally keeping their main focus or agenda on finding a female in whom to pass on his genetic information.  After insemination, the female lays anywhere from 8-20 eggs, depending on the size of the female, in approximately 30 to 35 days.  The eggs should be kept in the incubator and hatching occurs 80-90 days later.  Incubator should be kept in a constant 80° - 85° F (25°- 29° C) temperature range.  If temperatures fluctuate too much it may take longer for the eggs to hatch, some in excess of three months.   Some reptiles, including snakes, are known to store sperm.  If this occurs, the snake will lay another clutch in or around August-September, or possibly a third in or around October. 

Snakes intertwine during mating process, aligning their cloacas

Amel (M) X Snow (F)

Eggs from clutch were laid sooner than expected. The normal gestation period is 3 to 4 weeks (21- 28 days). They were found Monday morning in the corner of the tank when I inspected the cages first thing in the morning.  I quickly retrieved the 11 eggs and put them into damp vermiculite in the incubator to see if any will hatch. They looked pretty dehydrated.   I now know that the female is able to pass a clutch without getting bound.  Good sign.  I decided to try to breed her again and try the process one more time.

Amel (M) X Snow (F)

Interesting pattern to eggs.  Looks as if they are dehydrated a bit.

Anerytheristic hatchling '04

Three snakes were purchased at the Orlando Expo for educational research purposes

Life Cycle

Reptiles go through a process called brumination (like hibernation) in the cold months, usually in December – February.  It is common for snakes in the wild to find a cave or hollow tree stump to “sleep” for a period of time.  This is called the cooling down period and normally takes place just prior to mating in the spring. Captive snake’s tanks should be allowed to cool down, removing any heat pad source and allowing temperatures to fall as low as 50° F. Snakes in captivity during the brumination period may just seem inactive and refuse to eat.   Brumination is a normal occurrence in nature; so do not be alarmed if a corn snake does not eat during this time period.  During the month of March snakes become more active and seek out mates.  Females will eat whenever the opportunity arises building up their fat reserves, whereas males eat occasionally keeping their main focus or agenda on finding a female in whom to pass on his genetic information.  Females normally breed approximately one to two months after coming out of brumination, and lay their clutch in or around the month of July.  Some reptiles are known to store sperm.  If this occurs, the snake will lay another clutch in or around August-September, or possibly a third in or around October.  Snakes will then eat large meals in late December preparing for the next brumination period.  Captive snakes are know to live as long as 20+ years, with wild snakes having a much reduced life span due to natural predators, including road kill and frightful humans.

Feeding

Corn snakes normally eat once a week to once every other week.  Size of the meal varies depending on the size of the snake.  Mouse size range in order from smallest to largest: pinkie, fuzzy, hopper, small mouse, medium mouse, and large mouse. Hatchlings in captivity eat pinkie mice (tiny baby mice without hair).  They are affectionately called pinkies due to their pink appearance. Juvenile snakes move up to fuzzies and hoppers, then to small, medium, or large mice.  Larger snakes may eat small, medium or large rats.  Rats are larger in size from birth and may also be referred to as pinkies, small- large rats much like the naming of mice.

Habitat

Corn snakes are commonly found in the Southern United States, particularly Florida, with some populations reaching as far west as Louisiana and as far north as New Jersey.  These snakes are nocturnal, meaning they sleep a good portion of the day and become very active at night.  In the wild corn snakes are found in underlying brush, leaf litter, old tree stumps, under rocks or logs.  They are also great climbers and can slither up a tree, or desk, in no time at all.

Husbandry

In captivity corn snakes need a large enough tank (to accommodate growth) with a secure locking lid, substrate (bedding) in which they can burrow under, a piece of cork or similar substance to hide in or under, and a water dish large enough for the snake to immerse itself in (one that cannot be tipped over).  Fresh water is very important to corn snake health.  Snakes will bathe in the water dish and also use it as the restroom, so make sure the dish is clean and filled at all times. Hatchling snakes can be kept in a small 10-gallon tank with locking lid.  Larger snakes move up to 20-gallon tanks, and so on, to accommodate the snake’s movement and growth.  Snakes spend a great deal of time curled up in a ball underneath their hiding spot while some prefer to stretch out under the substrate.  In either case, snake keepers need to be prepared to make the switch to a larger enclosure when the snake increases in size. Also keep in mind that snakes become very active at night.  They will explore their habitat and go on the hunt each evening.  Captive snakes will search for openings in the enclosure, pushing on the screen lid with their mouth. This is the main reason for having a secure lid that snaps shut or locks. Remember they have an excellent memory and will escape from any opening time after time (assuming the snake has been found the first time).  

Snakes normally shed every month.  A telltale sign of a snake prior to shedding is when the snake’s eyes look opaque or milky.  This means the snake is getting ready to shed within a week, give or take a few days. This is the result of a normal growth process and occurs more frequently if the snake is fed more often than what is considered normal (a term known as “pushing”).  If the snake’s environment is too dry the snake may have difficulty shedding and skin will come off in pieces rather than one continuous shed.  If this occurs try misting the snake with a spray bottle just prior to the next shedding when the opaque eyes are noticed. 

When health issues arise, it is highly recommended that the snake owner find a reputable veterinarian that deals with reptiles (exotics).  Corn snakes are very easy to take care of, but occasionally snakes will come in contact with parasites, viruses, or acquire respiratory infections, especially if they are housed with other snakes in the same tank.  It’s always a good idea to keep new snakes in a tank by themselves for several months before introducing another cage mate.  This will help insure that the snake is healthy and adjusting to its surroundings and also alleviates unnecessary stress to the snake.

Handling

Corn snakes do have teeth and will bite in self-defense if they feel threatened, however, their first response is to flee or slither away.  These snakes are normally very docile and are great snakes for any beginning herpetology enthusiast.  Don’t show fear.  Pick up the snake from above, scooping hand under the ventral side (underside) of the snake.  Do not squeeze the snake, as this will frighten it, but rather allow the snake to move freely through the handler’s fingers.  The more a snake is handled the more familiar it becomes to life in captivity and the less likely the snake will be prone to striking at the handler’s hand. 

Always wash hands with soap and warm water after handling any reptile to eliminate possible contamination of reptilian salmonella. As a note of caution, never kiss a reptile.

For further information regarding using reptiles in public education refer to the website http://www.anapsid.org/repsineduc.html

Preservation

Pantherophis guttatus

Decomposition in Progress

This is the snake Tyler and Rene' brought into class.  This snake had been fatally injured by an automobile.  So far, this decomposition process has taken 12 weeks.  The flesh eating bugs, Dermestes maculatus, are slowly eating the carcass, removing all the flesh from the skeleton.  When this process is complete we will have a preserved specimen to observe in class.

The finished product/ July 2003

Internal Anatomy

Generalized Arrangement  (Male)

In a female snake, the testes are replaced by ovaries positioned in the same area of the body.

Lab Photos Coming Soon

Columbian Boa Internal Anatomy

Corn Snake Genetics

Lab Photos

Mendelism Through Corn Snake Genetics

by Kristin King

CD Only  

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